Fashion For Profit

The innovated mind is nurtured by experience, and real life education.

I believe that on the whole most people wishing to start their own business feel disconnected to conventional further education. Much of the courses taught in traditional institutions have major gaps when it comes to both life skills, business survival and to entrepreneurship. Conventional further education seems to be diluted and detached from the real world of business and from major commerce. This leaves the majority of people, who in fact run most of the businesses in this country, or soon hope to, less likely to survive their first year. According to research conducted by Dunn & Bradstreet, there are hundreds of thousands of small businesses started each -year; minorities and women start over half. The emergence of women in entrepreneurship in America and indeed globally is perhaps the greatest advantage to our economy, and to the world's economy. It is therefore important to the survival of these small businesses that we teach modem business practices and incorporates this into university and college curriculum.

My 30 plus years of further education within the fashion industry has been such that for the most part college curriculum does not change at the same pace as the industry.  Tenured professors and instructors don’t have real the real world experience needed to instruct students today. We are a Global industry with a Global economy and this should be an important part of the curriculum. Often making any changes to a curriculum requires extra work and effort and this is often rather over looked than addressed. 

It is my belief that you don’t need a four year college degree to learn the art of entrepreneurship.  For most it is in their blood and for others it cannot be taught. However, for trades I really believe we have to return the old method of education through learning on the job rather than in a class room. The Germans still educate through apprenticeship, which is a system of training a new generation of practitioners of a skill, e.g. patternmaking, draping, sewing, woodwork, and electrician. Short term training and retraining is the future for trade education…. Well that is my thoughts of fashion programs that turn out too many graduates with no job openings available to them. Most are left with large student loans and end up working in a retail store to pay them off.

 

POP UP STORE-POP UP RETAILING-FLASH RETAILING

 “Pop-up retail, also known as pop-up store (pop-up shop in the UK) or flash retailing, is a trend of opening short-term sales spaces in the United States and the United Kingdom.

A pop-up retail space is a venue that is temporary — the space could be a sample sale one day and host a private cocktail party the next evening. The trend involves “popping-up” one day(for example ((jome bazaar)) in iran), then disappearing anywhere from one day to several weeks later. These shops, while small and temporary, can build up interest by consumer exposure. Pop-up retail allows a company to create a unique environment that engages their customers, as well as generates a feeling of relevance and interactivity. They are often used by marketers for seasonal items such as Halloween costumes, Christmas gifts and Christmas trees, or fireworks.^[1]

The term is often applied to shops offering items of apparel, where the shop is intended less to transact profitable sales than to promote demand for the goods and thereby produce profitable business at other locations, or in modes other than walk-in stores.” - From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Some also call it “Shop n Go”. Whatever name you choose to call it, it is a blend of traditional retailing with event marketing. This original concept was based on Japanese consumer culture and its devotion to rare and limited edition products. Initially, at a moment’s notice, customers would arrive at a clandestine location that housed a particular brand, designer or product. Once the products were sold out, usually within a matter of hours, the store would be closed until the owner received more products and was able reopen the store again. The concept is simple enough: find a vacant empty space for a day, weekend, a week or a month and send private invites by e-mail with invite codes for special discounts.

It seems that temporary retailing is here to stay and this new concept in selling can be a fresh new way to sell and merchandise. With U.S. retail vacancy rates at the highest levels in a decade, there's no shortage of space. Borders Group has closed many stores and is now popping-up stores around the country, most of them in malls where the bookseller used to have a presence. This method of selling product and getting attention of the consumer is taking off. It seems that most pop-up stores are selling apparel. Like the monthly sample sales we have at the apparel marts it seems that people love to think they are getting a deal and at the same time something special. Or, you could compare it to Trunk Shows where you have a designer take their merchandise to retail stores and for one event each season show their line and sell to a select invited group. Maybe sipping champagne and munching caviar while watching professional models show the designer’s new line.

So, for a retailer this type of selling could be exciting, profitable and an alternative to the traditional methods of retailing apparel. Staging events each week with new product, or brands then incorporating new social media marketing methods could be an interesting addition to include in your plans for opening a store.

 

33 Steps Check List to Producing Apparel

1. Concept phase; an idea  becomes inspiration
2. Sketch created
3. Market niche is determined -- (along with business plan and financial plan for startups)
4. Fabrication and trims chosen
5. Design translated into specifications (flats, measurement etc.)
6. Fabrics, trims, and other components approved and sample quantities ordered
7. Pattern made
8. Sample garment sewn
9. Sample garment tested for fit, and alterations made to pattern. (note: steps 6-8 may need to be repeated but should not be more than twice or there is a problem)
10. Final sample produced
11. Production costed
12. Sales samples and color options sent to sales reps. (research and planning for next season begins)
13. Design sold to retailers. Resulting orders are then used to determine production material quantities as well as to procure funding (factoring)
14. Production quantities of fabrics, trims, and components ordered.
15. Final production pattern made
16. Production samples produced (Sew by)
17. Patterns graded
18. Marker made for each size, and keyed to pattern repeat
19. Fabric unrolled and inspected for flaws
20. Cutting tickets made
21. Fabric layered and cut
22. Garment pieces bundled with sewing tickets
23. Bundles given to sewers
24. Constructed garments sewn and finished
25. Final pressing
26. Final quality control inspection
27. Garments tagged and hung
28. Packing slip and invoice created
29. Ordered garments pulled and packed for shipment
30. Orders shipped with strict attention to vendor compliance specs
31. Invoices sent to retailers
32. Garment displayed at retail
33. Consumer acceptance

Opening a Fashion Retail Store

Opening an apparel related retail store in order to sell directly to customers is attractive to many designers, lured by the promise increasing sales and building a brand. However, like manufacturing it should be fully investigated before making a final commitment. Many fashion designers, both large and small, have become successful retailers. With the addition of a retail store the business now becomes a vertical operation; from the first sketch to the point of sale, the designer/manufacturer has control. Once you open your store, it may also be a good idea to include other product lines within the store, which would complement your own creations. These other lines could be sold on consignment, which would help cut back on the direct costs of investing in inventory. Having several options will empower you and help you to make the right decisions. Opening a retail establishment demands a significant amount of time to properly oversee every aspect of the fledgling business. If you are a designer/manufacturer do you have that time available?

Finding the right location and understanding your customers’ needs are key elements of owning a retail store. It is helpful to sell what you know!  However, if you are not familiar with basic marketing principles or the fashion industry, it will be critical to learn about and investigate the market. Becoming profitable will require continual upgrading on a weekly basis to improve and refresh your retail operation.

All of the information in my soon to be published Fashion Retailing for Profit will be very valuable information to you when planning to open any  retail store. Even if you are not going to manufacture clothing yourself, it is important to understand all aspects of producing a garment, from concept to the consumer. Some of the most important issues that will influence your success as an apparel store owner will be the same as the components necessary in becoming a successful designer/manufacturer; both your discerning good taste and your business expertise.

A TART – But Not for the Eating!

A Permanent Tattoo, or is it called Permanent Body Graffiti -

Why, oh why does anyone do this?  OK paint yourself but why make it permanent? Hello!  It will be there for the rest of your life; through good and bad times, thick and thin body changes, young elastic skin to old and floppy loose skin!! My over active mind boggles at the many changes the tattoo will morph into and through.

I went for lunch with a friend last week and as I sat down this pleasant looking waitress came to take our orders.  I must first clarify that I have seen most things in my varied life time of experiences and even if I have chosen not to do them, I can for the most part ignore most things as long as no one is being hurt. But I have to admit I was taken off guard when I was confronted with the waitress’s hands and fingers. TART was tattooed across both sets of her fingers!  She had other tattoos up her arm and other part of her body that I could see where her skin was exposed. I think I have grown accustomed to, or desensitized to seeing tattoos in these other body places.   But why would a nice looking young woman choose to have TART indelibly engraved across her fingers? If you really are driven to have a tattoo on your hand then why not choose something pleasant or fun like a flower or a dogs face. It was hard for me not to ask her why she did this horrible thing to herself.

I have to admit I am a committed hater of tattoos of any kind and really cannot understand why anyone would choose and then pay to have them become a lifelong bill board of stupidity! I really have not seen one person whose looks were improved by having a tattoo.

A trend is a trend that changes constantly but if you say that having a tattoo is a trend then it will rapidly go out of fashion when it is replaced by a new trend. Like Ed Hardy you can donate those not so trendy tattoo art t-shirts but that is not an option with a permanent body tattoo. I think as a mother I would have cut my kids off from any support if they had come home with any type of tattoo; large or small on any part of their body.  Ear piercing OK, they can be removed at any time but a TATTOO!!

Just my own strong opinion AGAIN! 

 

Fascination with Fascinators! - Whether you like them or not they are fascinating!

Personally I think most fascinators look rather pretentious and stupid! I honestly can say I have not seen many adaptations and creation of the fascinator that improve the wearer’s overall looks.  I do love hats and have enjoyed being a wearer of head gear for many different occasions. As we know, for the most part hats do normally have some kind a function. They were created to protect us from the elements; the sun, or the rain, or to keep our ears warm in the cold weather. They can also be worn to protect from paparazzi. Caps and sunglasses are a well recognized disguise. They are also worn as a status or as a uniform , for example with priests and train guards. However, for hundreds of years hats have also been created to be worn just for the fun of it. They are worn as the topping off of a beautiful elegant outfit. But, it seems to me that most fascinators have pushed the “for the fun of it” to the limits of becoming ridiculous. Like “modern art”, there are some forms that really defy art or reason.

Princess Beatrice and Princess Eugenie example of topping off their wedding outfits with those craziest of fascinator as a head decoration just left me frowning and fascinated at how they just did not work to improve the wearers’ appearance. Was the objective to get attention? In which case the fascinators worked, but then they would have had their share of the spot light being the cousins of the Prince. Princess Beatrice has her own unique beauty she would have been better advised to highlight that instead of wearing that toilet roll holder on her head!!:)

As I am a Brit I could assume that maybe it is another example of their humor! Our daughter got married last July 4^th and we had a number of family members from the other side of the pond from the UK and my husband’s side from Germany turn up with fascinators packed in their suitcases to wear under the California sun at the garden wedding! Luckily we had planned for the sun and provided white umbrellas’ for them all to protect them from frying in the heat of the late afternoon sun.

Maybe I need to hear from you and if you would wear a fascinator like the one Princess Beatrice wore?

A Fashionable Graduation - or not such a great idea?

It is that time of year when fashion college graduates are preparing to graduate. For many graduating students this will also include a fashion show to launch them into the world of fashion! It is a fact that we have around 21 fashion programs in the LA area alone! Then let’s consider the other colleges across the country in other cities and globally who all deliver “fashion programs”! Oh boy! Does anyone; the students enrolling in these programs, or the many colleges delivering these fashion related program ever consider where their wide eyed graduates will find a job?  Or, is it only about filling the programs to create a revenue stream for these colleges?

Unfortunately, for many new graduates they will soon realize that there are not many new job openings available.  This reality will soon be hitting them hard, both emotionally and financially! Big student loans to pay back and no work! Project Runway, has in my opinion not been the best image for our industry. It should be named “Project Unreality”.  I also feel that including student fashion show at graduation, which are often poorly produced with clothes that are not made professionally really does nothing to help graduates to find a job. They waste valuable learning time on these embarrassing self indulgent shows.

One of the better graduating fashion shows is produced by Otis College of Art here in LA. They invite industry critics to work with the students. The students must make the clothes time and time again until they are PREFECT! I know because I taught studio there for 9 years.  But even Otis fashion grads don’t all find their dream job.

The Art Institute program has a really good prerequisite for students that they must Intern in the industry. They receive college credit for their internship. This in my opinion should be required by all colleges as a very valuable extension to their studies. At the FBI (Fashion Business Incorporated) we have had some great interns from many local colleges. Those that work hard for us and show initiative find work and we willingly help to network them into a permanent job. Interning and networking are both so very important and I don’t mean social networking! I mean face to face interaction. Now that is another great topic for another time!

 

  

 

Are you an out of work pattern maker?---- This is for YOU!!!

For Immediate Release: Joyce Eisenberg sponsors Fashion Business Inc. to provide certified job training to displaced qualified patternmakers

Joyce Eisenberg has recently provided the funding to train 10-plus qualified participants with industry specific specialized certified job skills training. Joyce is the owner of the New Mart Building, a contemporary showroom venue in the heart of the LA Fashion District.  Mrs. Eisenberg commented that "The New Mart is pleased to be able to partner with the FBI in re-educating individuals who will be more qualified to compete and find new employment in the industry."

The FBI will partner with PAD (specialized software program for creating patterns) to develop the 25 hour plus curriculum for displaced pattern makers who qualify for the program. They will receive advanced software training with a focus on their specific uses for the apparel industry.  “Although they are experienced in “flat patternmaking” this software program will train them specific advanced functions and processes that will help make them more efficient and valuable employees,” says president/founder of the Fashion Business Incorporated Frances Harder “Trainees will learn everything from how to create formulas for cost sheets and spec sheet in Excel to how to use the PAD system to create patterns. 

 This FBI/PAD certified training program will enrich experienced patternmakers’ skills that will give them an advantage when seeking employment. Upon program completion Fashion Business Inc. will assist trainees with resume preparation, career coaching, interviewing skills and ultimately job placement connections.   

 “With Joyce’s continued generosity the FBI is able to help these valuable skilled workers to take advantage of these slow and challenging times to update their training,” says FBI Frances Harder.  “We are excited about being able to assist this group to become more desirable employees and strengthen their job skills without any additional expense to them.”

 Fashion Business Inc. has been reaching out to corporations who are facing layoffs as well as apparel-specific employment agencies and college alumni career services to recruit qualified participants. The program is scheduled to begin in June 2011.  For more information on the Joyce Eisenberg Apparel Job Skills Training Program please email info@fashionbizinc.org.

 About FBI:

The Fashion Business, Inc. 501(c)(3) is a business resource and training center dedicated to the growth of the U.S apparel industry.  The FBI provides convenient access to important training, tools and business resources that support the advancement of domestic garment manufacturers, apparel industry workers and the U.S economy.

 About PAD: PAD is a leading provider of CAD systems to students, professional designer and any sized apparel factory, around the globe, delivering pattern making, techpacks and marker solutions to more than 20,000 enterprises and apparel factories internationally. http://www.padsystem.com

 

Project Runway – Good Industry Image or Bad?

It seems that many viewers think that Project Runway is a great show. Well, I have to say I am not a fan. I am one who thinks that the show has in fact been a very bad example of what a fashion designers real job is realistically all about.  Project Runway, in my opinion has served as a major bad influence for the industry as a whole and to the thousands of young people who have been swain by the show to study fashion design. While, for the MANY colleges, universities and other further educational institutions who offer fashion related degrees around the country, I am sure it has been a major boost in enrollment the fact remains there are not the jobs to sustain the graduates. Many have to take student loans that they will be paying off for many years to come. Or, once they have exhausted job interview opportunities, or worked for a while in the industry and become disheartened they are force to go bankrupt, and then it becomes the tax payers’ debt.

I deal daily with professionals in the apparel industry and I am also fortunate to guest speak at many fashion college events. I understand the industry and what are the many changes taking place on the Global platform. I can assure you that Project Runway has nothing to do with the real industry. I have had four of my ex-students, or Fashion Business Incorporated members who have been on the show. My feedback from them has not been positive. Project Runway is nothing more than entertainment and I would have no problem with it as a show if it clarified this. But, to watch continuously these mean spirited reality shows torture their participants’ is to me very distasteful. The industry has for years had a bad enough reputation and to add another layer of negativity is a shame!

Anyway, if anyone is reading this and wants to get in to the fashion industry first take the time to educate yourself about the many different job opportunities and the different colleges and what they offer. They don’t have to be private colleges that cost a fortune! There are some really good community colleges and state universities that offer good degrees. Personally, I have been very impressed with Cal Poly Pomona’s courses offered and their graduates. But, for the most part it is up to the students themselves to take what they learn and use that to network into a real job. Paying $35,000 a year for four years and then not getting a job is a financial tragedy.

The fashion business is an amazingly interesting and exciting industry that has been very good to me! I have had so many great adventures and opportunities. But, maybe I got a head start in my own reality and it is in my blood! I started sewing at twelve and learned from my mother, who was a designer for her brother who had a factory in Nottingham, UK. Her mother, (my grandmother) was a lace maker in Nottingham. My father was a chemist who specialized in textiles. My aunt had her own dress making business…. My grandfather on my father’s side had their own brewery…!:)

 

 

Questions for Retailing in a New Economy

Below are some thought provoking questions I have put together that both the manufacturer and the retailer should consider.

Is the retail depression a result of the economy or a product of the “no trend, no brand” market of today’s fashion industry?

1. Is this the Chicken before the egg? Which came first? Confusion of retailers and buyers, or no understanding of the changing trends (no trend) or the confusion of the customer, or the recession?
2. The new retail market demands have been slowly changing since before the downturn. Speed to market, immediate, open to buy, this was happening before last fall.
3. Change can be a good thing but recognizing the changing industry is part of solving the down turn problem. What should a retailer recognize and how should they adjust their buying habits?
4. How important is display and refreshing displays and new merchandise?
5. This also is important for online stores?
6. Is it part of doing business today to have web based sales and a website with ecommerce? We are seeing more and more online sales.
7. How important are online stores like eBay, Amazon, Guilt, Zapoos, Yahoo or other online marketing?
8. How important is it to research and spend time marketing through social media?
9. Customer service? Retaining your customer base. Small things do make a difference, a smile and true customer service is worth the investment in training your employees.
10. PR and marketing on a budget?
11. Software to help with operations and organization?
12. Are trade shows a dying breed?
13. How effective is buying “Made in the USA” or “organic”, “green”, “and recycled”? Do customers really care?
14. Are brands still important? Do they still drive the market as much as they use to?

Fashion is not driven by a real need but by an impulse to reward and feel good about ourselves.  Keeping the merchandise tempting seems a problem.

State of the Industry - General Overview of the LA Apparel Sector.

The LA apparel industry is historically very fragmented both ethnically, and from the products that are produced. From the many knitting mills (which have mostly closed up), premium denim, contemporary women’s, active sportswear and the Korean junior market, each have their own dynamics and for the most part they do not cross over into one another’s territory. Then there are the many ethnic contractors who do the sewing for the manufacturers. Chinese, Hispanic, Vietnamese, Korean and the others! Each group may have their own associations but there is not an overriding organization which services the needs of the whole industry. So, does that matter? Yes, in today’s (2011) economic business environment the US apparel industry needs both representation and advocacy that services ALL sectors of the largest apparel sector in the world. The city and state needs to focus on the immediate needs of the industry environment or we will lose it and all that goes with our creative world recognized branded industries.

Too much legislation, taxes and licenses are required by the city, the state and federally agencies making owning a profitable manufacturing, or contracting business very difficult.  The reputation that the whole industry is a sweatshop abusive industry has remained and tainted any support.  Historically, this has resulted in the city, state and federal government not wanting to get involved or invest in new technology and infrastructure that would serve the apparel industry.

Ten years ago the mantra heard from LAEDC was “let the brains stay here and let China, or other off shore counties have the manufacturing jobs.”  Well, that is for the most part what has led us into this depressed sad situation in 2011 when we are scrambling to find domestic production who can provide fast turn production and produce smaller units more often. In order to facilitate these immediate needs we must plan fast and respond to these needs before it is too late. Having an incubator building in down town that incubates new businesses and trains new workers from entry level to skilled workers is a must and could easily be accomplished with the right team. The building would also provide a center that would educate businesses about sustainability and new technology uses.

I have been involved in the industry for the past 35 years both in the US and internationally. I have been fortunate to have been commissioned to work for companies from: England, Germany, Turkey, China, Brunei, Japan, Italy, Guatemala and many US companies. I founded the Fashion Business Incorporated in 1999 through a realization that we need to help creative designers run a successful business, which involves business management. This venture and my other experiences have led me to many other exciting opportunities and I am proud to say to become a recognized consultant on the apparel industry. 

Some of the ventures I have been involved in for the past 10 years that have given me a very good insight into the apparel industry both domestic and internationally:

• Authored several books on starting an apparel business and entrepreneurship. www.fashionforprofit.com
• 2001 to present - Planned and presented a variety of topics twice each year at the MAGIC trade show in Vegas (the largest apparel in the world).
• 2002 – to present - Planned and presented seminars at the Active Sportswear Show (ASR)in San Diego and other leading trades shows across the country and internationally.
• 2005 & 2006 - Presented a seminar on Brand Building at the Hong Kong World Boutique. Plus, organize a group of 8 FBI members from LA for their show case trade show.
• 2007 – Presented a seminar at Shanghai University on how to prepare to enter the US market with their label.
• 2008 - Invited by the French Government to be part of a select global delegation of 8 to learn about the issues that surround counterfeiting of branded goods. The trip to Paris, Carne, and Marseille involved some very impressive lecturers and mixers to discuss the problems surrounding this topic, which unfortunately often involves Illegal drugs, child labor, mafia, and terrorist activities.
• 2009 - Invited as a US industry expert by the German government to be educated about what the German’s are doing to support the creative arts, which included fashion, furniture, and architecture using sustainability. The visit took us to Munich, Dusseldorf and Berlin.
• 2010 -Invited by the Australian government to present lecturers in Sydney, Melbourne, Perth, and Brisbane on the global apparel industry and the many changes that are taking place therein.

The global industry is constantly evolving and changes on the global platform are interesting to note.

• Fact! LA is a global trend setter in a number of categories, Active Sports, Streetwear, Contemporary and now the junior market (Forever 21). Trends DO NOT start on the runways of Paris or New York. The west coast market follows Europe and NY markets and this means that west coast manufacturers have to spend big $ to go to the trade shows in Europe and NY as the buyers have a budget and they will send first in NY and then come to LA.
• China has become more expensive due in part to the international demands for compliant manufacturing. China is now taking production into cheaper countries. China is even investing in new factories in Viet Nam, Africa, South America and have show a great deal of interest in investing here in the US and particularly in LA. This would be a good idea for both counties.
• Some Mexico retailers are driving to LA and buying product from the Korean manufacturers. With import duties it is cheaper than doing production in China or domestically.
• Italy is bringing in cheap labor from China to work in their factories so that they can still retain  their label “Made in Italy”
• The “Economist” predicts that India will overtake China as the largest economy in 2020. Many US manufacturers produce in India.

Foot note: The Fashion Business Incorporated (FBI) 501 c3, has never been formally supported as an institution that services the US apparel industry. It is a shame that other counties seem egger to embrace and recognize what a small group have worked so hard to create and to built here in LA. The fact is that there is no domestic support for what is at the moment the largest apparel industry in the world. Can we retain that lead? It is very unlikely that we can given the lack of organized leadership and recognition of our dynamic creative industry. But I do live in hope!!!