Fashion For Profit

New Hot Topics for Apparel Manufacturers

A hot topic in the apparel industry is the  US Customs crackdown on LDP  (landed duty paid) sales  made by non-US vendors who use US-based clearing agents to act as importer of record.  In recent months, US Customs has conducted some 200 unannounced visits to the premises of clearing agents and brokers, including a number of visits in the Los Angeles area.  

 US Customs is stopping shipments, challenging the right of the clearing agents to act as importers of record as well as challenging  the value declared for customs purposes, believing that in many cases the value is underdeclared.

Law  Offices of Roy Ian Delbyck
Email:  roydelbyck@delbycklawoffices.com <mip://0410f320/roydelbyck@delbycklawoffices.com> 
 

Speed to Market - Fast Turn - Rapid Response

What do these terms mean to the apparel industry in 2009? Good news and bad news!

 

New times = New methods of doing business = Rapid response to the demands of the retailer and consumer.

 

But, can the average apparel manufacturer respond rapidly? Well, for the small company who, due to their smaller orders are for the most part producing domestically it is good news. They can turn on a dime and produce faster than the larger companies who need a much longer lead time to produce their goods, usually in far off places. Smaller companies with small orders ship them to the retailer, then if the orders sell through they get reorders. This is the very best of new business news for new and smaller manufacturers. It is also good news for the retailer as they can plan for the demands of their customers, the weather, and the economy etc. This new type of selling and buying results in the manufacturer having a much better cash flow, as they will not be seeking funding for larger orders when selling through the traditional five seasons each year.

 

This tradition of selling at the four or five markets each year usually requires groups within each line that demands cash outlay for the expenses for patternmaking and sampling. Now, the manufacturer is constantly designing, which they really always have and then showing new products, and shipping weekly or monthly new merchandise. So now the manufacturer can get paid more often. They do not need to invest heavily in the five big lines a year as they are now producing and shipping new items to replenish sell through products. The retailer will also have less of a cash flow problem with this type of merchandise planning. The customer will see new items when ever they shop. A win win in a new economy! Well, we hope so.

 

So, it has at last been officially noted by many international economist that the small business owners are really the backbone of our economy, not only in the US but globally. The big branded companies are not fairing well and many have had to cut back or worse, close their doors. Small businesses can adjust and respond as they don’t have large overheads. For the most part they contract out all their work, including sewing, cutting, bookkeeping etc. and cut back on other expenses to respond to demands, or lack of demands of the economy.

 

Some for the negative results of this new economy is that bigger retailers are demanding, from branded manufacturers that they discount or allow markdown money. Additionally, major discount store, e.g. Marshals, TJ Maxx, Ross are producing more private label. This has resulted in much cheaper prices for the average clothing labels that are now being sold. The price of clothing today is the lowest we have seen in years. Due to the recession sewing factories around the world have all been forced to lay off workers. The ports in China and other locations are full of containers with cancelled orders. These goods may get discounted and sold or they will have to be destroyed.

 

However, much merchandise is still being produced domestically, especially in southern California where they produce premium denim, active sportswear and contemporary clothing. But sadly both the off shore and the domestic sewing contractors reluctantly have been forced to take cuts in their pricing so that they can keep their workers working. This rational is in the hopes that the economy will turn around and then the demand for new clothing will pick up. The alternative is to lay workers off and then when the economy turns around they will then need to reinvest time and money in finding good workers and training them.

 

Another change in business methods are that some of the higher end retailers are asking the smaller manufactures to sell on consignment and this is not a good idea. It was bad enough that traditionally the manufacturer has taken all the risks with development and production costs then have to wait to get paid. Now they are expected to take ALL the risk and maybe then get paid!

 

Talk about getting screwed!  - Consignment selling will be one of my next blog topics.

 

 

But, now onto a very different topic. It is the season to be merry! And I need to take a deep breath and keep my mouth shut when I see all those ugly heavy knitted sweaters decorated with Christmas trees adorned with lights and holly. Or, equally as offensive fashion trend, those cheaply mass produced red jackets lovely dragged out annually of the closets. Where, in my very opinionated opinion they should really remain for posterity. J

HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO YOU AND YOUR LOVED ONES. I HAVE MUCH TO BE GRATEFUL FOR IN MY LIFE AND ALTHOUGH CLOTHING IS MY BUSINESS IT IS NOT MY LIFE.

Sales, Order taking, & Shipping

- Building Relationships for Sales, Equals Better Business.

Take the time to prepare your sales team. It is important to know which retailers they have a relationship with and how experienced they in fact are. How long they have been in business and do they have a good reputation. Sales reps work under your direction and expect to be paid for their work on your behalf. 

 

Understand before they take your samples to a trade show how orders will be taken and in what quantities or dollar amount. What do your sales reps expect of YOU! Sales reps are let down by manufacturers not shipping the orders they have worked hard to write, which will also result in no payment of commission. Plus, and this is a very important point, the relationship that your sales team has worked hard to build with a retailer is ruined if the manufacturer is unable to meet the orders or have not lined up funding for production. Manufactures must understand their responsibilities to their sales team.

 

What should both parties do to prepare for market, how to direct sales, orders and the VERY important follow up. The sales and manufacturers partnership is a team that should be understood.

New Law for Apparel Manufacturers – VERY IMPORTANT YOU KNOW ABOUT THIS

Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act.  (CPSIA) covers ALL consumer products, not just children's
There are 2 pieces of law that need to be addressed:

• GCC - General Certificate of Conformity. This is a self declaration by the importer of record (or if it's a domestic brand - by the manufacturer and/or brand) essentially saying that your product meets all federal requirements and has been tested in a "reasonable" manner. It covers ALL consumer products regardless of age grade.
• CPSIA 3rd Party Testing Requirement. This applies to children's products only (ages 12 and under). The importer/brand must have a valid test report from an authorized/approved 3rd Party Testing Lab (BV is one of the approved by the CPSC). This covers various things including Lead and Phthalates.

Feb. 10th is a key (critical) date for all manufacturers/brands and retailers. CPSIA essentially says that effective 2/10 any and all product currently on the floor (in inventory) must have been tested to a reasonable program for Lead in Substrates and Lead in Surface Coatings. Ex: If a product was manufactured on 3/1/08 and is still in the retailers’ inventory on 2/10 then the manufacturer/brand must be able to certify that the product was tested and is compliant w/ the legal lead limits.

CPSIA is still evolving. Since this is a legal issue I strongly recommend all companies consult w/ legal counsel.

Go to: www.apparelandfootwear.org for further information.

Also, in today’s LA Times is a good article:

--------------------
Children's clothing makers in a frenzy over lead testing
--------------------

As buyers converge on the L.A. garment district to decide what to stock in stores, already struggling manufacturers are scrambling to have kids' items tested to comply with federal law.

By Alana Semuels

January 16 2009

Jennifer Taggart's testing gun seems an anomaly in this California Market Center room filled with pink tutus and flowery white baby gowns. She holds a laser gun, called the XRF Analyzer, to a tiny dress and waits.

The complete article can be viewed at:
http://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-lead16-2009jan16,0,2603976.story 

From Earnshaw's magazine

Money Tips
Financing Your Business: Giving (and Taking) Credit Where Due

" Having a basic knowledge of . . . financing options is an essential skill needed by today’s business owner. . . Without it, the failure rate increases dramatically. Lack of adequate capital and failure to apply basic financial management techniques is the number two cause of business failure. Poor overall management and lack of a focused marketing plan are the first and third reasons . . . "

Peter Linington
Vice President, CIT GROUP
From "Financing Your Business" Chapter 5
Fashion for Profit by Frances Harder*
http://www.fashionforprofit.com

Who doesn’t need more money? But knowing where and how to find the right credit to get you over downturn bumps and sluggish cash flow can be time consuming, tricky and risky. Invest first in the time to gather sound advice from your bank officer, accountant, investors, business counselors, local Small Business Administration and online and other research sources. Here’s just a bit more than two-cent’s worth of financial tips to make dollars and sense:

• Start the Money Search. Better to know where to get cash before you need it to keep your business going. Even if you’re coasting along, be prepared and search for sources to sustain cash flow. Check out free information online about commercial loans, credit scores, equipment leasing, cash advances, working capital, accounts receivable financing and protecting your personal credit. Start at a general information site that provides lots of information and objective options, such as http://www.businessfinance.com (over 4,000 sources of financing!)
• Know Your Banker. If you do not already have a personal business relationship with a bank officer at your branch, foster one. The more the banker understands you and your business goals, the better the opportunity for the bank to adapt its services to your unique needs.
• How Much is Enough? The answer to that depends on the answers to a lot more questions lenders will ask. Be prepared in advance with thoughtful answers. What’s the purpose of the loan? How much personal debt do you have? How much capital is invested in the business? What personal and/or business collateral do you have? Can I see your business plan? How and when can you repay funding? What is your cash flow? Do you have a CPA, attorney, life and liability insurance? What is your business experience? What are your past business success stories? Is it circumstances, setbacks or growth opportunities that require new financing?
• A Partner May Offer More Than Additional Debt Can. Instead of incurring more debt, consider selling equity (ownership) in your company. If you find the right partner, he or she can offer you more than just added capital. Look for talents that complement your current team. A good partner is a gift. The rewards can save your business and provide new opportunities. Instead of a hands-on relationship, there are also venture capitalists that will silently invest in your business, potential and vision for a percentage of profits. Both options could be a better solution than borrowing from lenders.
• Deal with Suppliers. Put creative wheelin’ in your dealin’. Part of financing your business is the history, relationships and payment terms you establish with a variety of suppliers that provide your goods. Earn a relationship of trust by paying on time, over time. Then, if needed you can ask for longer payment terms. Delay payment as long as possible without incurring added charges or jeopardizing trust. Even offer to pay a bit more for fabric and other goods if you can take longer to pay. Such deals can be less expensive than loans and credit lines. Bartering is another option that has gained acceptance in these recessionary times. Can you offer goods or services in exchange for something you want from your suppliers? If you approach negotiation from a position of trust, fairness and teamwork, both parties can give-and-take together and keep business on track.
• Keep Ship Shape. "Don’t ship more than you can afford to lose," advises Kenneth Wengord of FTC Commercial Corp (www.ftccc.net ), a factoring operation specializing in apparel. In shipping orders, protect yourself in advance by not letting greed cloud reason. Don’t over sell or over ship. Retailers are asking clothing manufacturers for credit and merchandise returns. Remember, you are not a banker. Wengord cautions, "Don’t ship C.O.D. If you have concern about payment risk, request payment by credit card. If the retailer is slow in paying, and you assess that the issue is timing of payment versus not receiving payment, then ship in limited amounts. Make it a merchandising/sales decision, not a credit decision."
• Don’t Get Over Your Head. Reduce Overhead. In a sink or swim cash flow, Wengord cautions apparel manufacturers to "keep your overhead as low as possible and keep your inventories lean." More careful planning can keep you from buying too much inventory that you have to sell off. Overhead adds more employees and builds an infrastructure. But when the market turns, you can’t turn it off fast enough. When that happens, a brand with lower operating costs can come in and beat you in price.

There’s so much news about economic woes, we need to pull together and communicate openly with our vendors and retailers to come up with innovative solutions to credit, sales, costs, and selling both at the wholesale and retail levels. What have you found to be credit worthy solutions? Have you discovered your silver linings? Let us know. Email Earnshaw’s Marketing Director David Gaunt, dgaunt@symphonypublishig.com.

* Special thanks to Frances Harder, president and founder of Fashion Business Inc. (FBI) and author of Fashion for Profit, which was a reference source for some of these financing tips. FBI provides the fashion industry with resources and business education to turn business into a profitable reality. Check out the website for services and seminars. www.fashionbizinc.org.

 

Case Study - The birth of a new company

From: Shawn
To: Frances
Sent: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 10:59

 New Lingerie Company

Hello Frances,
 
My name is Shawn Herron and I am an Entrepreneur.  My wife and I are opening a lingerie line by the end of the year.  My situation is somewhat different then you are probably used to so I will try and explain it as best as I can.  I am looking for some guidance into what your company can and cannot help us with and any specific resources that you offer for someone in my situation. 
 
So here we go...
 
Our Strengths
- Our designs are made by my wife Juliana and her mother, they currently have 30+ high end designs ready for year one (Bras and Panties, Wedding Sets, Baby Dolls, Corsets, and Bathing Suits).
-We are handling all Business Startup issues (Corporation, Trademark, Contact List, etc...)
- Her family owns a manufacturing company and will handle all things pertaining to the orders.  Their family has over 20 years experience
- We are creating our company in their homeland in the country of Colombia and will have to import to here
- We will have our catalog ready by Nov/Dec
- We can handle all orders in less than 1 month delivery time (They can handle very large orders)
- We plan to sell our lingerie to specialty stores in the US, Europe, and Colombia (and other South American Countries later on). Her family is well aware of the process of shipping products to the US
- Will be taking a 40 day visit to Europe in Spring of '09 to develop contact list and make sales
- We can speak English, Spanish
 
Things that will limit us
 
- I am in the Military, currently deployed to Afghanistan until January '09 so all study and contact will be from here.  This limits some of my time, but not all.  I have a state-side telephone number and I can make calls as well.  I have been researching info everyday for the past month on top of my regular work here in the service
- We will have roughly $35,000 - 40,000 dollars of our savings for our budget initially. Could possibly borrow money if needed or ask family.
- Even though I have a bachelors degree in IT, I do not have experience in Business, however I am good at dealing with people, resourceful,  and am very motivated to learn everything I need to be successful
- Marketing is a concern
- Budgeting properly is a concern
- Branding is a concern
-International Sales is a concern
-Website functionality is a concern

I would be open to being mentored; however it has to be done by phone, email, msn messenger, etc.  so you can see most of the limitations are business pointed toward my lack of experience.  How much money do you believe we would need initially?  Do you have any special programs for Veteran Mentoring?  Do you know anyone who does?  What are the costs for the services of you company?  Any other information will be very helpful if you have something that I didn't list
 
Thank you very much for your time
 
 
Shawn

RosaBella Lingerie

From Frances

To: Shawn
Subject:  New Lingerie Company
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 21:00:34 -0400
 

Hi Shawn,
I am sorry for the delay in replying but I have been traveling in Europe.

You have A LOT going on here! Too much for you to handle with little experience and lack of funding.

I would be happy to talk to you on the phone and wave the fee for a free session.

Do you have my book Fashion for Profit, Costing for profit and Brand Building for Profit? If not you should start there as I wrote them for people like you and your wife starting a business within the apparel industry.

Once you have read them, then you can write your questions down so that we may be able to find a time to talk on the phone.

From: Shawn

To: Frances

Dated 7/8/2008 11:40:32 A.M.

Hello Frances,

I read all of your books this past week.  Wow!  It was definitely worth the investment, and then some.  Thank you for writing these valuable tools and for agreeing to speak with me.  I would like to take an extra week before we talk to go through my notes from your books, crunch some numbers, and start putting my business plan into a better format. 

What time/day would be good for you to talk next week?  If you give me a few options I can look to plan my regular work day around one of your openings. 

Thank you once again,

Shawn Herron

From: Frances

To: Shawn
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 00:05:56 -0400

Hi Shawn -

Could talk tomorrow after 3pm or on Wednesday after 4pm. Or next week, which is better for me. Can you wait?
Regards,

Frances

Hi Frances,

I have no problems waiting until next week.  I will have more time next week also.  And more time to prepare.  What times are good for you?  I will do my best to be free. I'll continue working until then so I can give you a really good idea of what we are planning to do.

Have a great week,

Shawn

From: Frances

To: Shawn
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 02:03:10 -0400

Dear Shawn,

It was a pleasure to talk with you in Afghanistan this afternoon!

Sitting conversing with you from the comfort of my own home here in beautiful Southern California through your Skype service, when you are sitting in 115 degrees in Afghanistan; Shawn, it made me realize I will really try to help you and your wife as much as I can with your new apparel adventure.

I am also cc-ing a number of my industry colleagues and FBI board members. Although I never bet, (as leave that to my husband), I am betting that they will rally around you and your new company to help provide you with some of the resources that will lead you to understand what you need to think about to run a successful apparel business.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ & then more $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I was moved by your entrepreneurial excitement in your wife's creative abilities to create a sexy bedroom line of clothing. And, as you explained, you have a winning team; you have the other half of the equation with your business drive and mind. 

So, I hope that between us all we can assist you to create a business that will be rewarding and profitable.

 Here the news gets even better for you to enjoy while sitting in the heat of Afghanistan and risking your own life to protect US!!

Over the past ten years since founding the FBI, I have enjoyed some wonderful relationships with a number of amazing organizations and entities. One of those entities, Joyce Eisenberg, owner of the New Mart Building, home of the FBI and the FBI's founding patrons has granted for the third year to the FBI funds for us to provide scholarships, which would include funds to cover FBI memberships and FBI training.  

Well, Congratulations Shawn!

The Fashion Business Incorporated is proud to award you the Joyce Eisenberg FBI scholarship in the amount of $1,000.00, which will give you the advantage of both free FBI membership and training.

As I stated on the phone, I will do my best to help you and your new company through my own long and colorful experiences and via any connections I have with my likeminded colleagues.

The FBI has the resources and connections to provide you with some free mentoring for the beginning of a new very viable business.

Please provide your full name and information to Darlene my assistant and we will add your name to our membership list data (membership $250.00) and will give you the rest of the $1,000.00 as $750.00 credit for training or consulting time.

How about checking out our online training. Go for my online seminar first on starting our own business, this will then give you a good overview. Then check out some of our other amazing online training course that are now available to you. 

If you wish to call next Friday at the same time as today you should be able to reach me on the same number as I work from home most Fridays.

Kind regards,

Frances

From Shawn

To: Frances

Date: 7/19/08 05:00:02

I AM SPEACHLESS!  I never imagined anything like this.  I still can't fully believe it.  Wow!!!
 
My wife is so happy right now.  THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!  We are going to work so hard to make sure not to waist anyone's time.  My wife says THANK YOU as well.
 
I will definitely plan to call you next Friday with an update and I will write your coworker and start taking advantage of these classes. 
 
Thank you Thank you Thank you, I can't say that enough.
 
Shawn and Juliana

From Shawn

To: Frances

Date: 07/22/08 16:53:55

Hello again,

this past weekend my wife and I have discussed what our next move should be.  We are both in agreement that Juliana and her Mom will attend the Lingerie Americas Trade Show in New York Aug 3, 4, and 5th 2008.  Frances has expressed that this is the best way to know if your designs will measure up and find out if there is a market for our merchandise.  75% of all buyers at this trade show are from boutiques.  That is our targeted segment and we believe this is our best option.  Juliana will also visit the Show in Las Vegas on the 25th, 26th, and 27th. 

My wife has set up a photo shoot for tomorrow and is creating a "look book" for their top 6 designs so they can show their work and receive some feedback even though we won't fully participate.  We will not have a stand this year, but January is a possibility to begin selling.  It depends on what they see from the competition and the feedback from Buyers and Sales Reps.  They will also stay in the NY after the show and hopefully can meet with future clients and show their actual garments to receive even more feedback.

We would like to know if there is a chance to visit FBI, in Los Angeles, to receive design consulting between the 18th - 22nd of August.  My wife will have a better understanding of what direction we should go after the "Lingerie Americas" show and we feel this would be the perfect time meet with FBI and associates in order to receive design/ planning advice.   My wife can also apply the information she learns from FBI to the Second show beginning on the 25th.

Thank you again,

Shawn and Juliana Herron

From: Frances

To: Shawn

Date 07/25/08 14:12:02

Shawn,

I will be in town on the 18th August.

Kind regards,

Frances

From: Shawn

To Frances

Date: 07/29/08 10:01:23

Hi Frances,
 
My wife just got to Philadelphia from Colombia where my family picked her up.  My family is driving her up to NYC on Sunday Morning for the first day of the Lingerie Americas Trade Show.  Unfortunately, the show's workers said that we cannot use any publicity at the show so my wife is going to have to get creative in finding ways to interact with the sales reps and boutique owners at the show.  She knows that she needs to check out the competition and make sure that we measure up.  She will be there for 6 days and try to show some of her samples to potential clients in order to receive feedback.  It should make for an interesting week.  I'll keep you posted.
 
Shawn Herron

From: Frances

To: Shawn

Date: 3 Aug 2008 11:41:18 -0400

Hi Shawn,

Please tell your wife that she cannot push her product when at the show as they will get mad.  She can get the show directory for the sales reps info but not the buyers list.
If you have time do you want to post the emails on both blogs? Or, do you want me to?
Thanks
Frances 

My other job!!

For those interested in what else I do besides write books on running an apparel business please check out the following link.

http://www.blackdiamondproductions.com/bdp
User Name: FBI
Password:  FBI

Case Study of New Apparel Business

Dear Frances,

I have just purchased your book, Fashion for Profit. This book is extremely helpful! I am setting up my own fashion business and your book has actually saved me a whole lot of time and money due to it answering all of my questions.

I see you have additional courses, which I feel all designers should keep on doing even once they have a career. It helps to keep one updated and fresh of mind.

I am having a test run of my business, during which I would like to keep you in touch of the progress. I am designing made to measure jeans for Tall Women, so the test run will perfect the unique patterns and testing of premium quality denim for each client.

Once again thank you for the book and also your business, both are a continued help for my business; TallGenez.

Sincerely,

Roy Parkin. CEO/Chief designer of TallGenez

Biker Shorts – Another fashion statement that should be against the law!

I had to laugh when I received the following from an old friend and successful fashion designer over in the UK. She echo’s my sentiments on bikers’ shorts in true British out spoken fashion.

“ps a friend from NY came for dinner at the apt in Paris, it was so embarrassing, she was wearing a T-shirt and cycling shorts, and she weighs 500 lbs, i joke with the weight, but she is FAT !!, It was a dinner, Saturday night in Paris, and she looked like she was going to the supermarket, with all this horrible lumpy fat showing on the tops of her arms and legs, Fran i think u might have said something to her, it was revolting.  u can be fat, that’s not the issue, but pls wear the right clothes. She is 65yrs old, so it matters. Why do Americans often have no sense of decorum? ”

That last statement could be debated, and I hope you put forth your two pennies worth!!

Biker shorts are really one of my pet hates both for men and for women. They are even worse for men! I see them every weekend when I go for a hike and stop for a morning coffee. Bikers also stop by for a coffee when enjoying their morning ride at the most fantastic location for a Starbucks on the PV peninsular. The men have very unsexy lumpy lumps at the front of their bike pants and ugly padded butts from behind. The women in this odd fashion often look more appealing, but only by a hair!

A free invite to a very important film premier

Buying a branded product is often snob based. We seem to have a preconceived conception of a person walking around wearing a "Prada" or other highend branded products! Wow! They must have the BIG JOB and the BIG BUCKS! But why do we think like that?? Do you value that person more?? Is that product worth more because it is branded?

NO!!!

I have preached it for years, that for a manufacturer you need a brand follower to earn the big bucks but as creative designers, or free intelligent creative thinker, WHY do you feel you need to have a brand association? We should ask ourselves why do certain people keep on buy these goods knowing they are knock off's???

It is important to begin a dialog to educate both the old and the young as to who is behind these illicit goods. Why do we not think beyond buying a "great bargain" and saving on a product that should often cost much, much more?

Please join us for this very important film premier, sponsored by the US Chamber of Commerce, made by the National Geographic and produced by the famed producer Dr. Moises Naim, acclaimed editor of Foreign Policy magazine.

I look forward to seeing you all on the 14th April at 5.30pm at the LA Textile show at the California Market Center in LA. Please see more below-

Illicit: The Dark Trade

Film Background

The National Geographic Special reveals how hidden criminal networks cost untold numbers of jobs, kill and maim thousands of people, and breed violence and corruption. It focuses on how technology both enables and can disable illicit trade. It also raises questions about whether authorities have coherent strategies to combat this new phenomenon and shows how consumers are often complicit in illegal trade.

To highlight this growing threat, the U.S. Chamber of Commerce has underwritten a new National Geographic Special, "Illicit: The Dark Trade." This groundbreaking film is not just about smuggling or crime, it's about how criminal networks are changing the world.  Illicit trade has increasingly dangerous political consequences—money laundering, massive corruption, and the subversion of entire governments. It is changing how we live in ways unrealized, and governments around the world seem powerless to stop it. Illicit trade is redefining economic relationships, borders, and the role of workers, managers, armies, and governments.

The film is based on the bestselling book Illicit by Dr. Moisés Naím, acclaimed editor of Foreign Policy magazine. Naím believes illicit trade could be as big—or even greater—a threat to our way of life than terrorism. Naím lends his expertise and his voice to the film.